ON Friday, April 12, 1700, about six o'clock in the morning, we set sail from Leith for Orkney, the wind fair, though faint, which not being able to bear us up against the tide, we dropt anchor two miles east of Inch Keith, where we lay from ten till three in the afternoon, when a brisk gale arising, we weighed anchor, and sailed down the Firth, the ship making so good way, that before next morning at break of day we were past Montross.
On Saturday the wind lessened, yet about sunset we past Peterhead, steering towards the point of Kinnair, leaving the Bridges of Ratray (a ridge of blind rocks) on our larboard. Next morning, being the Lord's Day, with a gentle wind, we made the best of our way through Murray Firth, spending the day in religious exercises with the mariners and some passengers in company with us. When before Peterhead we saw the fins of a great fish about a yard above the water, which they call a pricker; also about ten at night a whale was seen, by the help of moonlight, at a little distance from our ship, casting forth the water in a hideous manner.
Next morning about seven o'clock we got sight of Orkney, and the wind blowing somewhat harder than it had done the former night, in the afternoon we passed the east end of Pightland-firth, which, though ordinarily raging with the impetuous current of a sea, by reason of the many tides meeting there, yet we found it not so ; but, in the midst of that part we passed, dined upon deck, so meeting with least danger, where we feared the greatest. We put into Holms-sound, and arrived there about seven at night, on the Monday after our setting sail.
The ship's crew told us, that though they had frequently sailed these seas to and from Orkney, yet never had they a better or pleasanter voyage : which providential favour was the more observable, the wind, next day after we landed, blowing strong from the north, and lasting several days. Which, if it had come on before we had accomplished our voyage, we would not only have been blown back to sea, but, thereby a tempest arising, we had been in no small danger. We desired to look upon this as a signal mercy, and a token for good.
We would have hired our bark to Zetland, but the master being under charter-party, was obliged to return with a fraught of victual to Leith, and not having the occasion of any other ship or bark, we were forced to hire one of these open boats of about sixty meils, which the Orkney men use for carrying victual to Zetland, else we could not go for Zetland this season, though the ministers and others told us our passage might prove dangerous.
Our stay in Kirkwall, the chief town in Orkney (assisting that presbytery in some of their affairs) was from the 16th to the 27th of April, when, with three ministers of this country on the commission, we took boat for Sanda, about thirty miles north-east from Kirkwall, and in our way to Zetland, having ordered our own boat to follow with the first fair wind. We put off about two in the afternoon, the men rowing with six oars about half way, when the wind rising something favourable, with a little sail and four oars we got over Stronza-firth. Though, as we came near our landing-place in Sanda, the increasing wind raised the waves so high, that sometimes they intercepted the sight of the island. Yet we all got safe on shore betwixt nine and ten at night. The mercy of our escape was the more remarkable, that our boat was thronged with passengers, and so overloaden, that the water came almost to her brim ; so that if the sea had not been smooth and calm when we passed through Stronza-firth, we had been probably all lost : as these who had knowledge of those seas did afterwards declare unto us.
We waited in Sanda for a wind from April 27 till May 9, when the wind presenting, we went to the isle of Eda, lying a little to the west of Sanda, where our boat was, but before we could get aboard, the wind shifted to southeast, and then to east and by. south, which was too scrimp to fetch Zetland ; however, the wind now being very changeable, we judged it expedient for us to lie near our boat, and lay hold on the first occasion : so May 11, the wind at south-east, we put to sea, but scarce well were we without the Red-head of Eda, when the wind proving contrary, we returned, to Calf-sound May 12, being the Lord's-day, we spent in religious exercises, with the people of the isle; in the evening the wind turning fair, we resolved, next morning early, to get aboard, if the wind held. This last night, after we. returned to Calf-sound, was terrible, for wind and rain from the west (the wind soon , altering after we had got in again to Calf-sound) with which we could not have kept .the sea, in all probability. A great mercy then it was, that we were determined to return, and. did not keep the sea, as some advised, for, though within half an hour after we had got into the sound, the wind turned fair, yet being too strong, the sea became foul and tempestuous, which was not for our open boat.
Monday morning, May 13, about two o'clock, we were called to go aboard, which we did accordingly ; the wind at west, or west and by north, the gale was brisk, but not very great, which we were glad of, thereby expecting a speedy passage : so we with two other boats in company loosed, but scarce were we a league without the heads, when we saw a storm of wind and rain making in the west, whence the wind blew, whereupon one of the boatmasters in company advised us to tack about, and endeavour to fetch Calf-sound again; which counsel we judging to be safe, accordingly essayed to follow it, but the wind and sea rising more boisterous, and the current of the ebb being strong from the sound, we could not by any means effectuate our design, though we made several trips, not without danger, the sea with its broken and swelling waves threatening to swallow us up every moment : the mariners stood by their sails, crying, this work was very dangerous ; and at one time, as one of them observed the boat had taken in about ten barrels of water, the pump was still kept going, we judged ourselves to be lost men, and some expressed so much. In these straits we desired the boatmaster, sit-ting by the heim, to see if he could make any other harbour or bay ; he answered, " God have mercy on us, for the sea we dare not keep, and there is not another harbour in Orkney we can make ;" the men were fatigued with the toil of their hard work, and almost at the giving over. We then knew to our experience the meaning of that Scripture, Ps. 107. 27. of seamen in a storm being at their wits end. Though the wind was fair for Zetland, yet we durst not hold on our course, the sea not only being tempestuous, but we had also several rousts, or impetuous tides, to pass, and then the ebb was in the sea, which made them so much the more dangerous. Thus straitened, we thought it adviseable to go down with some sail before the wind to the north end of Sanda, and endeavour to get into Otterswick or Taphness-bay ; we first attempted Otterswick, and, lest we should have been blown by the bay's mouth, we held so near land, that the boat beat several times upon a rock ; however we got in, and dropt anchor on the weather-side of the shore.
We were all much refreshed with this great deliverence from so imminent a danger. When we had ridden some hours at anchor, the wind and sea calmed. About seven at night, one of the boatmasters in company, who had entered the bay a little before us, weighed anchor and put to sea again. Some of our number were for lying still, till the weather was better settled ; others thought, that seeing God had commanded a cairn, that we had a favourable wind, that the sky appeared to be well set and promising, and that the other loadened boat had gone to sea before us, it might seem from these things Providence invited us to sea again : whereupon we put off, but before we had come the length of North Ronalsha, scarce a league distant from the bay we had been in, the wind became so faint, that the mariners took them to their oars to help them through North Ronalsha Roust, thence, when we came to Dennis-Roust, we made some way with our sails without oars, the tide then turning and the flood beginning to run in the sea.
Tuesday, May 14, about one or two in the morning, the wind shifted to east south-east, then to east, and our boatmaster telling us that he was forced to steer a northern course, else he could not bear sail, and so holding on, not a stone in Zetland he could hit, as he expressed himself, we all judged it most proper to return to Orkney : when we had tacked about, the wind shifted to north-east, a strong gale, together with great rains, which caused a rolling and a swelling sea, (for rains here without winds do raise. or canker, (as they term it) the sea, and much more when wind and rain come on at once ; however we got in safely to Stronza-road, which was the readiest we could make It was a happy providence that we then returned at that nick of time, for the flood not being all spent, we were thereby likewise hastened in our way, so that within a few hours we came to our port, though, as was reckoned, we were near midway between Orkney and Fair Isle. The storm increased with the day, and after our landing it was so very great, that we were obliged to keep within doors for several hours : and if then we had been at sea, it is terrible for us to think upon the dismal effects which might have followed thereupon, for, without all peradventure, we had certainly perished, if the Lord by some wonder of mercy had not rescued us, as indeed he had formerly done. " O that we would praise the Lord for his goodness, and for his wonderful works to the children of men ;" and that so long as we live, we may never forget the 13th and 14th days of May, wherein the Lord wrought a great deliverance for us.
Thus being discouraged, we were in great perplexity, not knowing what to do, whether to make any further attempt, or to return home, re infecta, seeing God in his providence had so crossed us hitherto, and it might be his mind we should not go forward. Upon these fluctuating and perplexing thoughts, we asked God's mind in the matter, after which more light did arise, and we unanimously resolved yet to try what the Lord would do with us.
Friday, May 17, between eight and nine in the morning, wind and sky promising well, We put to sea, and passed the Fair Isle about five afternoon, keeping it on our starboard, then our gale increasing, but continuing fair, at south-west, we made good way. About midnight we passed Swinburgh head, the southernmost point of land in Zetland, having thence twenty-four miles sail up within land to Lerwick, whither we were bound. The wind growing more vehement, we lowered our mainsail and took in a riff ; with the breaking of the day there arose a mist, whereby we could scarce see land, however We judged it safest to keep as near it as we could, and sailed away by the coast ; but being to pass through a sound, having the isle of Musa on our starboard, and Burra Land on our larboard, our seamen mistook the point of Musa, taking another point in the mainland for it, and the mist lying on, we were almost engaged in the . land, and so would have fallen among the rocks, which they coming to suspect held to sea, resolving to sail without the point, which they did with difficulty, the boat being so close haled, and the blast so great, that the helm a-lee was scarce able to command her and keep her by the wind : which, when they had done, came to discover their error. Hence sailing through Musa-sound, we came to Brassa-sound, and arrived at Lerwick on Saturday about four o'clock in the morning.
We had a quick passage, sailing about a hundred miles in nineteen or twenty hour time : especially considering that we were not half an hour on shore, when a strong wind blew from the north, which if it had come on but a little sooner, we would have been driven back to sea. There is likewise another providence remarkable, that we had only an ordinary desirable gale when we passed the Fair Isle, where always there goes a great rolling sea, but when within the heads of the land of Zetland we had it very strong, so that scarcely we could have wrestled and held out against it in the occean.
We arrived in Zetland May 18, and, having brought to some period and close our principal work there, we set sail for Orkney, June 11, saluting and bidding heartily farewell to the ministers, and some gentlemen of the country, and to the most considerable inhabitants of Lerwick, who kindly accompanied us to our boat. We left Zetland Tuesday, June 11, about five afternoon, and having the wind at north-west or north-west and by north, we passed the Start-head of Sanda about four next morning, and, endeavouring to set into Ketteltaft in Sanda, to put one of the ministers of that isle ashore, our boat, through our boatmaster's inadvertency, struck on a rock, without sustaining any damage we knew ; but the wind not permitting to turn up to that road, we all came to Kirkwall, and arrived there before nine in the morning. Our passage from Zetland to Orkney was yet quicker than it was from Orkney to Zetland, we being but sixteen hours in running one hundred and twenty, or, as some say, one hundred and twenty-eight miles. Staying in Orkney a few days, we passed Pightland-firth to Caithness, and having dispatched our work in conjunction with the presbytery there, we came home by land, repairing with joy to our several charges, where we may set up our Eben-Ezer, saying " Hitherto hath the Lord helped us."
I think we are called seriously to reflect upon the manner of the Lord's dealings with us ; we have been long detained and crossed in our way to Zetland, though we made several attempts to go forward ; as to our commission, we were appointed by the general assembly of this church, and it being put upon us without any desire of ours, or inclination that way, we accordingly undertook our voyage, and came with a favour-able gale to Orkney : it is true, that there are natural causes of wind and rain, whereof we are to make a spiritual improvement, especially when they do impede or promote our design ; moreover, God's judgments are a great depth, and by the course of nature, in giving greater or lesser winds at his pleasure, he may carry on his more general works of providence, and yet thereby more especially intend the punishment of the wicked, or the chastisement of his people, which they are called to consider and improve : and as true it is, God in his wise sovereignty may so deal with his people, for the trial of their faith and other graces, that they may be still, and know that he is God, ruling as he pleaseth among the children of men : the de vii also, who is the prince of the power of the air, may have an evil and malicious hand in things of this nature, especially when men propose to do good, which tends to the overthrow of his kingdom. " O that what we have met with may be so blessed as to render us more zealous against him and all sin, whereby his kingdom is established in the world, " That we may fight with devils, and be more than conquerors through him who loveth us." I say, though these things and the like sometimes may and ought to be had a regard unto, yet I do humbly judge that upon these so very dreadful dangers we have in great mercy escaped, we are called to examine ourselves, and search unto our sins, as we are Christians and as we are ministers, for which the Lord may have a controversy with us ; our not being so faithful in our personal and pastoral work, in working our own and others salvation ; our impatience in not waiting the Lord's time, but being too anxious to be in Zetland at any rate ; and it is like in our not being so single in our ends in going as we ought to be, &c. I conclude this chapter as the Psalmist doth Ps. cvii. reflecting on the wonders of Providence, " Who is wise, and will observe those things, even they shall understand the loving-kindness of the Lord."
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