THUS far having considered the state of the country in general, we come next to take some particular view of the isles, which that I may the better and more methodically do, I shall lay before my reader the several parishes, with some brief description of the principal isles thereunto belonging. For, as to the number of the isles, I never heard an exact account given thereof, there being many of them small, wherein is only a family or two, and so but little noticed.
The first is the parish of Dunrossness on the Mainland to the south, and is the parish which lies next to Orkney and Scotland, wherein are three churches, in which their minister performeth divine service, Cross-Kirk, Sanwich, and Fair Isle ; in this parish are several very good voes, or harbours, commodious for ships to ride in. In this there is also much corn land, there ground hearing the richest grain, in many places not so mossy and covered over with heath as other parishes are, which makes them to have less fuel, though more corn. Much of the land here is sanded, and the sea almost yearly gaineth something on the lower parts thereof; the land lying so low and sandy in many places, is convenient for conies, which abound here about the ness or southernmost point of land. In this parish there is a great fishing ; this southernmost point hath two heads, Swinburgh Head, and Fitwalls Head, two high rocks seen by mariners coming from the south at a great distance, which, when discovered, they direct their course towards them.
To the north. west of the Ness lies St. Ninian's isle, very pleasant; wherein there is a chapel and an altar in it, whereon some superstitious people do burn candles to this day. Some take this isle rather to be a kind of peninsula, joined to the main by a bank of sand, by which in an ebb people may go in the isle, though sometimes not without danger.
The Fair Isle belongeth to this parish, lying eight leagues, or twenty-four miles to the south, or south and by east, of Swinburgh Head ; by Buchanan it is called insula bella, the pleasant or pretty isle. Though I do judge fair may be as well taken properly, as appellatively, for the isle Faira or Fara, there being another isle lying to the north of this which they call North Faira, which relates to another Faira by south ; now there is no isle lying to the south of this North Faira, which hath any name that can be interpreted Faira, but this Fair Isle. Moreover, I neither did see, nor was I informed of any thing that afford us any reason why this isle should be so appellatively taken and denominated bella or Fair. This Fair isle riseth high above the waters, and is seen by mariners at a great distance ; it is about a mile and an half long from south to north, and nigh to a mile in breadth, the side thereof towards the west is a continued ragged rock from one end to another, always beat upon by the impetuous currents of a swelling sea ; above this west side is the Craig, which they call the Sheep Craig, whereon there are no houses nor corn land, but sheep use to feed : the side lying to the east is lower, declining towards the sea ; there are in it two harbours, one upon the northern end, looking to Zetland, and another towards the southern point, but ships or boats do not ordinarily resort thereunto, if not put to it, and better cannot do, for so it hath been a safe shelter and refuge to many.
There use to be about ten or twelve families in it, but now they say death hath almost depopulated the isle, the small pox having lately raged there, and swept away two thirds of the inhabitants, so that there is not a sufficient number spared to manage their fishing-boats ; that gentleman's son, above mentioned, having touched here in his way to Zetland. They have good pasturage for sheep and kine, and some corn land, and are very hospitable and kind. Their minister useth to visit them once in the year, in the summer time, and staying with them about a month, preaching, baptizing their children, and doing other parts of his pastoral work ; after which, he returning to Zetland, they are without public ordinances till the next year's revolution.
The hawks, they say, which are to be had in the Fair isle, are best in Britain, which use to fly to Zetland or Orkney for their prey, these being the nearest lands, and some-times they will find moor fowl in their nests, which they behoved to bring from Orkney, seeing there are none in Zetland, and the nearest isle they could have them in was Stronza or Westra, which is between forty and fifty miles of sea, over which at one flight they must carry these fowls to their nests.
Many ships use to cruise about this Fair Isle in the summer time, and by it the Holland's fleet going to or coming from the East-Indies use to pass, though sometimes as in the late wars they sailed by the north of Zetland, that they might be more free of danger. Ships also going to or coming from Norway or the east sea frequently pass this way, when wind serveth them so to do : and this Fair Isle being seen by them at fourteen or sixteen leagues distance, in a clear day, it is as a myth or mark for directing their courses.
The second is the parish of Tingwall, lying on the east of the main to the north of Dunrossness, wherein are four churches, Tingwall, Whiteness, Wisedale and Lerwick, but the minister useth not to preach by turns at Lerwick, as he doth at his other three churches, he not finding himself obliged so to do, it being but built lately, at the ex-pence of the inhabitants, however sometimes he hath sermon there, and baptizeth their children. Lerwick in this parish is now become the principal town in the country, lying on the cast of the main at Brassa Sound, over against the isle of Brassa.
Lerwick is more than half a mile in length, lying south and north upon the side of the sound, and will consist of between two and three hundred families ; it is but within these few years, that it hath arrived to such a number of houses and inhabitants. It is become so considerable, because of the many ships which do yearly frequent the Sound, whereby merchants and tradesmen are encouraged to come and dwell in this place, and not for the pleasantness of its situation, or the fertility of the country about, for it is built upon a rocky piece of ground, wherein they can have no street, but a kind of a narrow passage before their doors, betwixt them and the Sound, which in some places will not admit of two mens' going in abreast, and at the back of the town there is a hill of black moss, wherein they cast their pites, which in some places cometh to their very doors, and no corn land is there about it, save a little within the castle, for near a mile of way.
Many of their houses are very commodious to dwell in, most of them being two stories high, and well furnished within, their inhabitants consist of merchants, tradesmen, and fishers, who keep up a good trade with foreigners, from whom they buy much of their domestic provision ; some of them are persons of a considerable stock, which they have many ways to improve for their advantage. They are very civil and kind, of an obliging temper, which we had the experience of, during our abode among them ; there are but few begging poor to be seen here; or in any place of the country, where we had occasion to be ; there being a great store of small fishes, for the supply of their necessity.
They have upon their own charges built a convenient church at the back of the middle of the town, and furnished it with good seats, high and low ; they are at present a part of the parish of Tingwall, but very desirous to be disjoined, and erected into a parish-by themselves, that so they may enjoy a minister of their own : for the promoting of which good work, they are most willing according to their ability to contribute for the settling of a fund for a stipend to a minister, but not being in a capacity to give all, they resolved to make application to the government, for to have some allowance out of the revenues of the bishopric of Orkney, or otherwise, as the wisdom of the government should see-meet, so that there may be a competency made up.
Upon their application to us, we judging it most convenient, yea necessary, that this town, with some of the adjacent country, should be erected into a parish, cherished this their pious design; telling them, that we intended to recommend it to the commission of the general assembly : that they may interpose with the lords and other honourable members of the respective judicatories, before whom this affair shall come, for the better effectuating the same. For the town itself is considerable, and the principal one in the country much frequented by the gentry ; as also by strangers, in the summer time. And their minister preaching seldom here, they are ordinarily destitute of gospel ordinances ; the people scarce being able, in the summer season, and almost impossible for them in the winter, to travel to the next church, where their minister preacheth : it being about four miles distance from them, of exceeding bad way, as we knew when we did perambulate the bounds. Which want of ordinances maketh their case very sad and deplorable ; it nurseth ignorance, occasioneth much sin, especially horrid profanation of the Lord's Day by strangers, as well as by inhabitants ; and doth effectually obstruct the conversion of souls ; preaching of the word being a special means of convincing and converting sinners, and building them up in holiness and comfort through faith unto salvation.
At the north end of the town is the castle or citadel of Lerwick, begun to be built in the time of the Dutch war, anno 1665, by workmen sent by authority from Scotland, for that end, but the work was never perfected, the workmen returning home anno 1667. At that time also three hundred soldiers were sent over, for the defence of the country against the hostile incursions of the Hollanders, and were quartered in places near to the fort, who likewise returned home about the same time with the workmen : the garrison could do much to command the Sound (for then there was no town here) so that none durst land nigh unto them ; the walls are yet in a good condition, high in some places without, but filled up with earth within, whereon they raised their cannon ; in the weakest part of the wall towards the north, there hath been a sally-port, dangerous to attack, by reason of a deep ditch before it, fed by a spring, into which the garrison by cunning artifices might endeavour to draw the enemy, who, by the stratagems of war thus being brought on and ensnared, did incontinently sink down into the Sound below them , at the foot of the hill whereupon the castle is situated : within the walls is a house of guard, which hath been two stones high, burnt by the Dutch, after that our soldiers had left the fort. Upon the walls towards the Sound are standing three iron cannons, one a six, another a seven, and a third a ten-pounder, not left by these who kept garrison, but since that time, within these thirty years, taken out of the sea nigh to Whalsey, a ship of force there being cast away about eighty years before, which guns the inhabitants of Lerwick lately mounted upon the walls of the castle, whereby they might be in a capacity to defend themselves against the French privateers, who at any time should come up the Sound and assault them.
Between Lerwick and the isle of Brassa on the east lieth a pleasant bay or sound, commonly called Brassa Sound, famous for its being so safe a road for ships to anchor and ride in, and that in the greatest storm, being inclosed with land on every side, except the entry thereunto from the south, which is half a mile broad, but within the sound as at Lerwick it is a mile ; it hath another narrow passage at the north end of it, but dangerous to go out or in at, because of some blind rocks therein. This sound is the ordinary place to which the Holland busses do resort in time of herring fishing, who, before they put out their nets, (which must not be, according to a law they have among themselves, before the 24th of June,) use to come here, and put themselves, ships, and nets, in order, and the time by them appointed being come, they all go to sea together, fishing near to this land : sometimes there have been seen in the Sound two thousand, or two thousand two hundred sail at once, and every year some hundreds, as five, six, or seven hundred. Yea sometimes so thick do the ships lie in the sound, that they say men might go from one side of the sound to the other, stepping from ship to ship ; and during their fishing they will come in to the sound for fresh water, or other necessary provision, and return to sea again.
To this parish of Tingvvall also belongeth Scalloway, lying on the west side of the Mainland four miles, which is the breadth of the country in that place from Lerwick. It was formerly the chief town in the country, and the seat of the presbytery, enjoying by far a pleasanter situation than Lerwick, about which is good grass, and corn, and some meadow, betwixt which and the church of Tingwall is the Strath of Tingwall, two miles of hard, even, and pleasant way ; they say about Scalloway is as pleasant a spot as is in all this country. In all the town there will be scarce eighty or one hundred persons, there not being such encouragement by trade to live here as at Lerwick.
At the east or south-east end of the town stands the castle of Scalloway, built anno 1600, by Patrick earl of Orkney, son to Robert Stewart, also earl of Orkney, who built the palace of Birsa formerly mentioned : above the gates, as we enter into the house, there is this inscription, Patricius Orchadiae & Zetlandiœ Comes, and below the inscription this distich, Cujus fundamen saxum est domus ilia manebit ; Labilis è contra, si sit arena perit. That house whose foundation is on a rock shall ; but if the sand it shall fall. The reason of the inscription is reported to be this : the earl greatly oppressed both Orkney an Zetland ; and particularly at the building of this house, his hand lay very heavy on the poor people, by causing them in great numbers to be employed about the building, which could not but divert them from their ordinary work, as fishing, &c whereby they provided sustenance for themselves and families. After this, one Mr. Pitcairn, minister of North Mevan, said to be a godly and zealous man, coming to pay his respects to the earl, the earl desired him to compose a verse, which he might put upon the frontispiece of his house ; from this the minister took occasion to lay before the earl his great sin of oppression, upon which the earl's anger was incensed, and in his rage he threatened him with imprisonment. However the earl afterwards coming to some composure of spirit, Mr. Pitcairn said unto him, Well, if you will have a verse, I shall give you one from express words of holy scripture, Luke vi. which verse the earl being pleased with, caused it to be inscribed on the lintel above the gate, with Luke vi. added to the verse, the minister thereby insinuating that this house could not stand long, having such a sandy foundation as oppression. As indeed neither did it, for shortly after the earl being beheaded, the house was not taken care of, and is now become ruinous.
And herein the wise providence of God may be observed, that as the inscription on the gate of the palace of Birsa in Orkney did hold forth the ambition of the father, so this inscription on the gate of the castle of Scalloway in Zetland did shew the oppression of the son ; and though, it may be many years since the death of them both, yet the very houses built by them, to make their honour and grandeur to appear, do yet stand, to their dishonour and infamy, and in a manner do bear witness against them : so truly verified in them, is that scripture, " That though the inward thoughts of great men be that their houses shall continue for ever, and their dwelling places to all generations ; nevertheless they being in honour and not understanding, are like the beasts that perish. And the righteous shall be in everlasting remembrance ; but the name of the wicked shall rot."
The house or castle is three stories high beside kitchens and wardrobe, and hath in it many excellent chambers, and other apartments, with their several conveniences ; also there hath been much good painting, some of which is yet to be seen, though much defaced ; the chambers are high between floors, but especially the gallery or dining-room : in the kitchen there is a well in the side of a wall, the water whereof is very good, though little used ; the slates have for the most part fallen from the roof, and are daily falling with every storm, so that the timber, much of which is yet very good and fresh, is beginning to rot and consume, by the rain falling through the house from floor to floor. The stone walls are yet in a good condition, they being considerably thick ; in the building are many free-stones, as lintels, jams, &c. which they say were brought from Scotland. I give a more particular account of this house, because built in this country, and to shew how transient, passing, and perishing, the glory and riches of the world are. In this castle of Scalloway some English soldiers for some time kept garrison, when their army was in Scotland.
The church of Wisdale, which belongeth to this parish, is much frequented by the superstitious country people, who light candles therein, drop money in and about it, go on their bare knees round it, and to which in their straits and sickness they have their recourse, yea some are so silly as to think, that if they be in any distress, though not at this church, yet if they turn their faces to it, God will hear them. One of the justices told us, that though they have laid out themselves to get these superstitious conceits eradicated, yet they cannot get it altogether effectuated, but still they continue among the people. A minister also told me, that it was much frequented by women, who, when they desire to marry, went to this church, making their vows and saying their prayers there, so assuring themselves that God would cause men come in suit of them ; but this is not now so much in use as formerly.
Before Scalloway lieth a little isle called Troudra, two or three miles long, wherein are a few families.
The third parish is Neston, to the east of the Main, to which belongs four churches, two on the main, and other two in isles ; in Neston is good harbouring and many grey fishes.
To the north-east lies the isle of Whalsey, wherein is a church, it is about three miles long, and as many broad. Here are great rats and very numerous, which do infest the isle, destroying their corns and other goods.
From Whalsey to the east lies the Skerries, several broken isles, wherein is a church ; here are two good harbours, but dangerous to enter, by reason of rocks that lie before them, but, when in, ships will ride very safely : there are no pites in them, but many ships being cast away upon them, the inhabitants make use of the wreck for burn-wood, and also bring some pites from Whalsey. Here was cast away that great and rich ship, called the Carmelan of Amsterdam, anno 1664, when the war was between us and the Hollanders, computed to the value of 3,000,000 of guilders, wherein were some chests of coined gold (of which more above in our description of Orkney,) and none of the men, as they report, were saved but four, who were on the top-mast, discovering the land ; but before they could give timely advertisement to the captain, the ship struck on a rock, and the mast breaking by the deck, the top thereof fell on one of the skerries, and so these four men perished not with the rest of their company ; they say for twenty days after the inhabitants of the Skerries drank liberally of the strong liquors driven on shore in casks. It is said this ship so richly laden was bound for the East-Indies.
In the way from Brassa Sound to Neston lies the blind rock called the Unicorn, the top whereof is seen at a low ebb, upon which the ship called the Unicorn was cast away, wherein was William Kircaldy of Grange, who, pursuing the earl of Bothwell, followed him so close, that they were within gun shot of one another, but Bothwell coming first through Brassa Sound got in a pilot, which Grange neglecting to do, they both sailed through the northern passage of Brassa Sound ; and Bothwell's pilot having a great reward promised him, if they should escape, ran down by the side of this rock, upon which the Unicorn did split, and so Bothwell got free of the danger he was in by this bot pursuit. It is most dangerous sailing among these isles without a pilot.
The fourth parish is Delton on the Main, wherein are two churches, it lieth north-east and south-east ; here are many grey fishes taken, whereas in the northern isles of Unst and Yell they lay out themselves more for the taking of white fish, as killing, ling, &c.
On the east lies Fisholm, to the north-east Little Rue, and on the west Meikle Rue, eight miles long, and two miles broad, wherein a good harbour. Ail these isles have their own advantages.
The fifth is Sansting and Esting, lying on the Main between Delton and Waes, wherein are two kirks, one in Sansting, and another in Esting. The way in this parish is very bad, and the people are said to be among the poorest and naughtiest in all the country ; here is good pasture for sheep, and the best wool ; as also the best shelties.
Nigh to Sansting and Esting lie several small pleasant isles, Vemantrie, a pleasant isle, full of harbours, Oxney, Papa Little, Hildesha, &c.
The sixth is Waes, on the main to the west, to it belongs four churches, one in Waes, another in Sandness, the third in the isle of Papa-stour, and the fourth in the isle of Fowla. To the south of Waes lieth the isle of Vaila, wherein a cat will not live, of which more afterwards.
The isle of Papa-stour is said to be the pleasantest little isle in all this country, two miles long, and well furnished with fuel, grass, corn, rabbits, etc. In it are four good harbours, one to the south, two to the north, and one to the west ; nigh to this isle lies the Lyra Skerries, so called, because the lyres (these fat fowls spoken of in our description of Orkney) do frequent this Skerrie.
Foula lies about eighteen miles west from the Main, it is about three miles long, wherein a high rock seen at a great distance ; I have heard say, that in a calm and clear day, they will see it from Orkney : there is only one place in it for harbouring, which if you do not hit, you will be driven to the sea, what by wind and tide. Their corn land is all in one end of it ; and the inhabitants live most by fowls and eggs, which are very numerous, and they are the best climbers of rocks in all the country.
The seventh is North-Mevan on the Main, lying to the north, wherein are three kirks, Hilswick, Oloberry and North-Rhae; they report the people of this parish to be discreet and civilized, beyond their neighbouring parishes ; which, under God, is owing to the labours of Mr. Hercules Sinclair, some time minister there, reputed to be zealous and faithful : he, in his zeal against superstition, razed Cross-Kirk, in this parish ; because the people superstitiously frequented it : and when demolished, behind the place where the altar stood, and also beneath the pulpit, were found several pieces of silver in various shapes, brought thither as offerings by afflicted people, some being in the form of a head, others of an arm, others of a foot, accordingly as the offerers were distressed in these parts of the body ; as a friend of his, a present minister in the country, did inform me. O that the pains and expence these superstitious soûls have been at might excite us the more dutifully to serve and worship our God in spirit and in truth ! There are also many more people in this parish, who can write and read, and give a tolerable account of their proficiency in the knowledge of the principles of religion, than there are in others.
Before it lies Lamma, a small pleasent isle ; as also another to the west-north-west.
The eighth is Brassa, an isle to the east of Tingwall and Lerwick, to which three churches do belong, two in Brassa, but only in one of them they use to attend ordinances,the other being built nigh to the manse, for their late old minister's accommodation. Brassa is about five miles long and two broad, all covered with heather, except some corn land by the coasts. Before Brassa to the east lies the Noss of Brassa, a small isle, wherein is one family ; it hath a high rock lying open to the east sea, and seen by mariners at a distance.
The minister of Brassa also hath a church in the isle of Burra, which he goeth to every second Sabbath, it lying nigh to the Mainland, west-south west from Scalloway, so that the minister is obliged to travel from the east to the west side of the Mainland when he goeth to this his church. The isle will be three miles long, divided in the middle into two small isles by a sea-break. The church is very large, and hath a high steeple in it. To the south-south-east of Burra lies Haveroy, a mile and a half long. Both in Burra and Haveroy is good pasture, and about them good fishing.
The ninth is Yell, an isle north-east and by the east from the Main, sixteen miles long, and as to breadth it is much like the figure 8, because of the many creeks and voes which divide and cut the land, yet in some places it is six or eight miles broad : in it are three churches and many old little chapels ; it is more mossy than some other isles, though there be in it some good pasturage and corn land. To the east of Yell lies Haskashie, two miles long ; to the south-west Samphrey, one mile long ; to the west-south-west Biggai, a mile and a half long; all pleasant, and well grassed, having much fuel, and especially excellent for fishing ; for if the wind blow from the west, the boats can lie on the east ; if from the east, they can lie on the west side of these isles, and that nigh to the shore.
To the east-north-east of Yell lies Fetlor, five miles long and four broad ; in it some chapels and Picts houses, as there are likewise in several other of the isles. In this isle there is a church, wherein the minister of Yell preacheth every fourth Sabbath; it used formerly to have been served by a preaching deacon, but the vicar by his diligence hath got the minister of Yell also obliged to serve in Fetlor, though Yell be more than sufficient for any one man to have the charge of.
The tenth parish is Unst, eight miles long, and four miles broad in many places ; in it three churches ; it is said to be the largest pleasant isle in all this country : in it also three harbours, Uzia Sound, Balta Sound, and Burra Firth ; here some good corn land and pasturage ; also several old chapels (of which more afterwards.) A little isle called Uzia lieth off Unst, a mile and a half long, as likewise several pleasant holms. Unst is the most northern isle in the King of Britain's dominions, under the sixty-first degree of latitude.
Thus I have given some account of the several parishes within the bounds of the isles and country of Zetland, and hinted at, if not all, yet the greatest part of the isles, the principal whereof are Unst, Yell, Fetlor, Brassa, and Burra.
Whence we see there is no minister here, but hath at least two churches, wherein he dispenseth gospel ordinances, and some of them hath three, and others four. Some of which churches are at great distance from one another, to travel to which is not only toilsome and dangerous to the respective ministers, they also not having little manses or houses for their accommodation when they come to them ; though often when storms do arise they will be detained in the isles for some time until they lessen : not only I say is this troublesome to the ministers, but highly prejudicial to the people, among whom the work of the gospel is greatly retarded (as we had occasion likewise to note concerning Orkney) few of the people using to repair to other churches when there is not public worship at their own, which at most will be but one of two Sabbaths, and in many places but one in three or four, and in some not to be. had for some months, which as undoubtedly occasioned great ignorance, so many gross scandals, as adulteries, fomications, &c. the faithful preaching of the gospel doing much, if not to convince and convert, yet to moralise a people, and put a restraint to these horrid enormities.
And though the difficulty would not be small, if at all it could be got done, to have ministers constantly to preach in the several churches, even in the most considerable isles, yet there might be some more ministers here than there are; four or five at least, to whom the tithes, if rightly employed, could afford a sufficient maintenance ; as one minister more in the parish of Dunrossness on the main, and another in the isle of Yell, &c. which charges at present are very great, and cannot well be served by the ministers they have. The tithes are farmed to vicars, a kind of inferior taxmen, who in some places do not only oppress the people, but are uneasy to the ministers, not paying them what they are obliged to pay till they please, which often they will not do for some years. The ministers, suffering by this piece of injustice, laid it before the commission, as one of their grievances, which they craved might be redressed, and for that end application might be made to the government.
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